The relationship between color and culture is profound, as color often carries special meanings in language, stories, poems, arts, and traditions. In the traditional color expressions of Japan, there is a unique aesthetic and spirituality. One example of that is "Kasane no Irome (襲の色目)", which refers to the color scheme of traditional Japanese kimono, where different colors are layered. Different color combinations were used to denote various seasons or were linked to special ceremonies.
When observing artworks such as The Tale of Genji Scroll, you can see that court ladies wore several layers of kimono (Uchigi), each layer's coloration having a specific name and adhering to certain rules. It is said that there are over 200 variations of these color arrangements.
The term "Kasane no Irome” plays with color combination both side-by-side and through transparency. In those days, silk was extremely thin, and the color of the lining was often visible through the top layer. People calculated the transparency in their color coordination efforts.
For instance, "Shoubu" (Iris) is a summer color arrangement. The bottom layer, Hitoe, is white, layered with light pink, followed by a slightly darker pink, then another layer of white to accentuate the layers. The top two layers are in different shades of green. At first glance, the green may seem overwhelming, but the placement of white in the middle creates a refreshing and light feeling, suitable for summer.
There is also a spring color arrangement called "Yamabuki no Nioi" (The Fragrance of Yamabuki), which, as the name suggests, beautifully gradients into the color of Yamabuki (Japanese Kerria), reminding one of the gentle spring sunshine.
Then, there's "Shironadeshiko," a summer color scheme where all the surface layers are white, and the lining colors are from the top: dark purple, a yellowish red, a yellowish pink, and different shades of green. Each layer subtly shows through the white surface, creating an elaborate and delicate color coordination.
Color is a vital element in Japanese culture, symbolizing emotions, seasons, and status, and underpins narratives. These combinations of colors convey various emotions and impressions to the viewer, creating a kind of dialogue between expression and reception. I believe Kasane no Irome can serve as a color palette that can still be utilized today by modern designers from any culture.
Though I could only introduce a small part today, exploring the profound world of Kasane no Irome is also a journey to deepen the understanding of Japanese beauty and culture.
I put a link to Kasane no Irome patterns if you want to see more. It is however in Japanese.
I hope it can inspire you.
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